Difference between pages "Metal Lathe" and "Milling Machine"

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{{Template:EquipmentPage |owner=ENTS |model=Craftex B2227L |serial=SERIAL NUMBER |arrived=June 2, 2014 |doesitwork=Works |contact=[[User:Orcinus|Raphael B.]] |where=Metalworking bay (Garage) |certification= Yes |hackable= No |value=$1300 |itemphoto=[[File:B2227L.jpg]]}}<br>
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{{Template:EquipmentPage |owner=ENTS |model=Craftex CX600 |serial=SERIAL NUMBER |arrived=Not Arrived Yet (paid, on back-order) |doesitwork=Works |contact=[[User:Orcinus|Raphael B.]] |where=Metalworking Bay (Garage) |certification= Yes |hackable= No |value=$1500 |itemphoto=[[File:CX600.jpg]] }}<br>  
 +
== Current State ==
 +
WAITING ON ARRIVAL!
 
== Specifications ==
 
== Specifications ==
Motor: 3/4 HP, 110V, 8.8 Amps <br>
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Motor: 3/4-HP, 110-V, Single Phase <br>
Reversing Switch <br>
+
Drilling Capacity: 1” <br>
Twin Belt Drives to 6 Speed (115 - 1626 RPM) Gearbox <br>
+
End Mill Capacity: 5/8” <br>
18" Between Centers <br>
+
Face Mill Capacity: 2-1/2” <br>
Swing Over Bed: 10" <br>
+
Spindle Taper: R8 <br>
Swing Over Cross Slide: 5" <br>
+
Spindle Stroke: 2” <br>
1" Spindle Bore <br>
+
Head Tilt:45° left or right) <br>
MT4 Spindle Taper <br>
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Number of Spindle Speeds: Variable <br>
Number of Inch Threads: 20 <br>
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Range of Spindle Speeds: 50 – 2250 RPM <br>
Inch Thread: 8 - 56 TPI <br>
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Working Surface of Table: 20” x 7” <br>
Number of Metric Threads: 9 <br>
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Table Longitudinal Travel: 11” <br>
Metric Thread: 0.5 - 3.0 mm <br>
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Table Cross Travel: 7” <br>
Lead Screw: 7 TPI <br>
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Table Vertical Travel: 15” <br>
Longitudinal Feed: 0.0025" - 0.005" per revolution <br>
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Number of T-Slots: 3 <br>
Tail Stock: MT2, 2" quill travel <br>
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T-Slot Size: 3/8” <br>
Cross Slide: 4-1/2" Travel <br>
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Maximum Tool Size: 9/16" <br>
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Compound: 1" Travel <br>
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Max. Longitudinal Travel of Tool Slide: 2.75" <br>
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== Accessories/Tooling ==
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3-jaw self-centering chuck <br>
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Right hand / Left hand / Center indexable carbide turning tools <br>
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Boring bar, indexable carbide<br>
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Parting blade, 3/32" x 1/2" HSS<br>
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Tailstock drill chuck, 1/2" capacity <br>
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MT2 dead center for tailstock <br>
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MT4 dead center for spindle <br>
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Center drills #3, #4, #5 <br>
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Fractional drills 1/16"-1/2" by 64ths, Numbered drills #1-60 <br>
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Assorted wrenches <br>
+
 
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== Accessories/Tooling Wishlist ==
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Quick-change tool post <br>
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4-jaw independent chuck with adapter <br>
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Letter drills A-Z <br>
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+
 
== Equipment Settings ==
 
== Equipment Settings ==
Spindle speed: Be mindful of what spindle speed the gearbox is set to. Different diameters and materials require different spindle speeds. Consult your Machinist's Handbook, the internet, or the handy (but woefully incomplete) chart on the wall behind the lathe for appropriate spindle speeds. For example, brass and aluminum can be turned much faster than steel or cast iron.
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Don't you dare change the angle of the tilt head. I will kill you, because tramming a milling machine is a very tedious process that can potentially take hours to accomplish. If you need to mill at an angle, clamp your part at an angle or buy the correct endmill. Do not change the tilt of the head!
  
 
== Safety ==
 
== Safety ==
1. NEVER leave the key in the chuck. Never. Not even for one second. Never never never. <br>
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1. Cutters and fingers do not like each other. Handle all cutters with respect. They are extremely sharp. Never let your fingers get close to a rotating cutter. Treat them like razor blades. <br>
2. Do not pick up chips unless you are absolutely 100% certain they have cooled. Once they have cooled, let them cool some more. Even then, it is better to simply push them off with a brush or pick up the long stringy ones with a pair of pliers. Further, this should never be done with the machine running; long chips could snag on the part or chuck and start whipping around. <br>
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2. Verify the rotational direction of the spindle is correct before you start cutting. This will almost always be clockwise or "forward". <br>
3. Parts should never protrude from the chuck jaws more than 3 times the diameter of the part without being supported by a dead or live center in the tailstock, or a steady rest (that we do not have yet). Parts shorter than their diameter should ideally be at least halfway in the chuck. <br>
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3. Verify the tool is securely fastened in the spindle before turning on the machine. <br>
4. Disengage the feedscrew transmission when not using it, and of course the halfnut on the carriage. <br>
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4. Climb milling is only recommended for experienced machinists. Use conventional milling instead wherever possible. Climb milling can suck a part into the cutter especially on machines with excessive backlash in the leadscrews. [[Media:Climb_vs_conventional.jpg]]<br>
5. Long, thin parts that extend out the back of the headstock should be sheathed inside a very loose-fitting fixed tube to prevent them from whipping around and bending over, essentially becoming a weedwhacker on steroids. <br>
+
5. Ensure the part is securely affixed in the vise or to the table, and that the vise is also securely affixed to the table. CORRECT use of the clamping kit is critical for parts not held in a vise.<br>
6. Regularly check that the chuck is firmly affixed to the spindle nose. There is a short allen key in the lathe tool box that will fit between the spindle nose and gearbox. <br>
+
6. Start the cutter's rotation while it is well clear of the part, especially with a fly cutter or multi-insert facemill. <br>
7a. When polishing with abrasive paper/strips, never let it wrap more than halfway around the part. It can snag on itself and pull your fingers into the part. <br>
+
7. Ensure the spindle speed is appropriate for the tool type, diameter, and material to be cut. <br>
7b. If polishing the inside diameter, never never never insert your finger in the hole. Wrap the abrasive around a small wood or plastic dowel that is significantly smaller than the ID of the hole. <br>
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8. Use medium-low speeds for the edgefinder. Do not raise an edgefinder off a part's edge while the spindle is turning. It may snag and destroy the edgefinder, part, or worse. <br>
8. Verify the chuck speed is appropriate for the diameter and material you are working on. <br>
+
9. Never leave the drawbar wrench on the drawbar. Never never never. This is as critical and dangerous as leaving a key in a lathe chuck. <br>
9. No long hair! NO LONG HAIR! Not even a ponytail is acceptable. If you have long hair, put it up under a hat or in a bun or something. Tying it back is NOT acceptable. We would rather see you looking silly than looking dead. If you don't believe me, do a google image search for "lathe accident" and you will see why. No loose long sleeve shirts, no dangling drawstrings on hooded sweaters, no loose jewelry/rings, no headphones, no neckties. If you are observed with any of these while operating this machinery, you will be asked to stop immediately. <br>
+
10. Never use the drill chuck for holding an endmill or other cutter that will experience a lateral load. Use a collet instead. The drill chuck is ONLY for drill bits, countersinks, reamers, counterbores, and other tools that only travel in the Z axis relative to the part. <br>
10. Safety glasses are always a very good idea, however, if they fog up and obstruct your vision, stop what you are doing and get a different pair. It's still extremely dangerous not being able to see, even if your eyes are protected. <br>
+
11. Safety glasses are always a very good idea, however, if they fog up and obstruct your vision, stop what you are doing and get a different pair. It's still extremely dangerous not being able to see, even if your eyes are protected.
11. Do not wear gloves while working on the lathe. They can snag and pull you in.
+
12. No long hair! NO LONG HAIR! Not even a ponytail is acceptable. If you have long hair, put it up under a hat or in a bun or something. Tying it back is NOT acceptable. We would rather see you looking silly than looking dead. No loose long sleeve shirts, no dangling drawstrings on hooded sweaters, no loose jewelry/rings, no headphones, no neckties. If you are observed with any of these while operating this machinery, you will be asked to stop immediately.  
  
 +
== Modifications ==
 +
== Working on it ==
 
== Known Problems ==
 
== Known Problems ==
The quill in the tailstock is not captive. If you crank the feed too much, it WILL disengage from the feedscrew, possibly screwing up your work. Be cautious of this. If you can see the keyway machined in the top of the quill, it's starting to extend too far. Stop your work, retract the quill, and reposition the tailstock closer to the work. This is a design flaw, not a failure of the equipment. We will (eventually) take steps to ensure the quill is captive, probably by machining a groove in the bottom of the quill and adding a set screw, as is standard on many lathes.
 
 
 
== Future Ideas ==
 
== Future Ideas ==
Add a chip pan below the lathe to catch aluminum (and only aluminum, do not cross-contaminate!) for recovery and recycling in the foundry.
 

Revision as of 11:59, 6 June 2014

Back to list of Equipment

CX600.jpg

Contents

Label

Milling Machine http://ents.ca/index.php/Milling_Machine

General

  • Owner/Loaner: ENTS
  • Make/Model: Craftex CX600
  • Usability: Works
  • Contact: Raphael B.
  • Where: Metalworking Bay (Garage)
  • Certification Needed: Yes
  • Hackable: No
  • Estimated Value: $1500

Instructions

{{{Instructions}}}

Current State

WAITING ON ARRIVAL!

Specifications

Motor: 3/4-HP, 110-V, Single Phase
Drilling Capacity: 1”
End Mill Capacity: 5/8”
Face Mill Capacity: 2-1/2”
Spindle Taper: R8
Spindle Stroke: 2”
Head Tilt:45° left or right)
Number of Spindle Speeds: Variable
Range of Spindle Speeds: 50 – 2250 RPM
Working Surface of Table: 20” x 7”
Table Longitudinal Travel: 11”
Table Cross Travel: 7”
Table Vertical Travel: 15”
Number of T-Slots: 3
T-Slot Size: 3/8”

Equipment Settings

Don't you dare change the angle of the tilt head. I will kill you, because tramming a milling machine is a very tedious process that can potentially take hours to accomplish. If you need to mill at an angle, clamp your part at an angle or buy the correct endmill. Do not change the tilt of the head!

Safety

1. Cutters and fingers do not like each other. Handle all cutters with respect. They are extremely sharp. Never let your fingers get close to a rotating cutter. Treat them like razor blades.
2. Verify the rotational direction of the spindle is correct before you start cutting. This will almost always be clockwise or "forward".
3. Verify the tool is securely fastened in the spindle before turning on the machine.
4. Climb milling is only recommended for experienced machinists. Use conventional milling instead wherever possible. Climb milling can suck a part into the cutter especially on machines with excessive backlash in the leadscrews. Media:Climb_vs_conventional.jpg
5. Ensure the part is securely affixed in the vise or to the table, and that the vise is also securely affixed to the table. CORRECT use of the clamping kit is critical for parts not held in a vise.
6. Start the cutter's rotation while it is well clear of the part, especially with a fly cutter or multi-insert facemill.
7. Ensure the spindle speed is appropriate for the tool type, diameter, and material to be cut.
8. Use medium-low speeds for the edgefinder. Do not raise an edgefinder off a part's edge while the spindle is turning. It may snag and destroy the edgefinder, part, or worse.
9. Never leave the drawbar wrench on the drawbar. Never never never. This is as critical and dangerous as leaving a key in a lathe chuck.
10. Never use the drill chuck for holding an endmill or other cutter that will experience a lateral load. Use a collet instead. The drill chuck is ONLY for drill bits, countersinks, reamers, counterbores, and other tools that only travel in the Z axis relative to the part.
11. Safety glasses are always a very good idea, however, if they fog up and obstruct your vision, stop what you are doing and get a different pair. It's still extremely dangerous not being able to see, even if your eyes are protected. 12. No long hair! NO LONG HAIR! Not even a ponytail is acceptable. If you have long hair, put it up under a hat or in a bun or something. Tying it back is NOT acceptable. We would rather see you looking silly than looking dead. No loose long sleeve shirts, no dangling drawstrings on hooded sweaters, no loose jewelry/rings, no headphones, no neckties. If you are observed with any of these while operating this machinery, you will be asked to stop immediately.

Modifications

Working on it

Known Problems

Future Ideas

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