Difference between pages "Metal Lathe" and "Horizontal Band Saw"

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{{Template:EquipmentPage |owner=ENTS |model=Craftex B2227L |serial=SERIAL NUMBER |arrived=June 2, 2014 |doesitwork=Works |contact=[[User:Orcinus|Raphael B.]] |where=Metalworking bay (Garage) |certification= Yes |hackable= No |value=$1300 |itemphoto=[[File:B2227L.jpg]]}}<br>
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{{Template:EquipmentPage |owner=Allan M. |model=Durex 71440 |serial=340900 |arrived=unknown |doesitwork=Working |contact=[[User:Orcinus|Raphael B.]] |where=Metalworking Bay  |certification=Yes |hackable=No |value=$300 |itemphoto=[[File:Horizontal_bandsaw.jpg|right|]]}}<br>
 
== Specifications ==
 
== Specifications ==
Motor: 3/4 HP, 110V, 8.8 Amps <br>
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* Capacity: 4" x 6" rectangular or 4 1/2" round<br>
Reversing Switch <br>
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* Speed: 80, 120, 200 FPM via belt/pulley change<br>
Twin Belt Drives to 6 Speed (115 - 1626 RPM) Gearbox <br>
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* Motor: 1/3 HP, 120V, single-phase 1750 RPM<br>
18" Between Centers <br>
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* Blade size: 64 1/2" x 1/2" x .025" or .020"<br>
Swing Over Bed: 10" <br>
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* Auto shut off<br>
Swing Over Cross Slide: 5" <br>
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== Usage ==
1" Spindle Bore <br>
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This is a metal-only bandsaw that will cut just about any non-hardened steel, brass, or aluminum. Although it does feature an automatic shutoff when the cut is complete, please do not leave the saw unattended during operation.<br>
MT4 Spindle Taper <br>
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Number of Inch Threads: 20 <br>
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Inch Thread: 8 - 56 TPI <br>
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Number of Metric Threads: 9 <br>
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Metric Thread: 0.5 - 3.0 mm <br>
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Lead Screw: 7 TPI <br>
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Longitudinal Feed: 0.0025" - 0.005" per revolution <br>
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Tail Stock: MT2, 2" quill travel <br>
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Cross Slide: 4-1/2" Travel <br>
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Maximum Tool Size: 9/16" <br>
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Compound: 1" Travel <br>
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Max. Longitudinal Travel of Tool Slide: 2.75" <br>
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== Accessories/Tooling ==
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The saw can cut any angle between 0 and 45 degrees by adjusting the stationary jaw of the vise. Please return the vise jaw to the standard 0 degree position after use.<br>
3-jaw self-centering chuck <br>
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Right hand / Left hand / Center indexable carbide turning tools <br>
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Boring bar, indexable carbide<br>
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Parting blade, 3/32" x 1/2" HSS<br>
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Tailstock drill chuck, 1/2" capacity <br>
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MT2 dead center for tailstock <br>
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MT4 dead center for spindle <br>
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Center drills #3, #4, #5 <br>
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Fractional drills 1/16"-1/2" by 64ths, Numbered drills #1-60 <br>
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Assorted wrenches <br>
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== Accessories/Tooling Wishlist ==
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Use of cutting fluid is generally not required, but will certainly reduce heat buildup and wear on the blade, especially when cutting steel. If you decide to use cutting fluid, please clean up the mess afterwards, as it will surely puddle on the floor beneath the cut.<br>
Quick-change tool post <br>
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4-jaw independent chuck with adapter <br>
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Letter drills A-Z <br>
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== Equipment Settings ==
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Proper tensioning of the blade is essential to prevent cracking and breakage of the blade. The tension knob is on the end of the swingarm, and should only be just tight enough to prevent slippage of the blade on the drive wheel. Making it tighter than this will not improve cutting performance and will in fact degrade blade life. Similarly, downfeed pressure must be carefully adjusted via the straight handle next to the vise wheel so that it's not heavy enough to bend/bow the blade, nor light enough that the teeth simply skim over the workpiece. Excessive feed pressure can break the blade, insufficient feed pressure dulls the blade quickly.<br>
Spindle speed: Be mindful of what spindle speed the gearbox is set to. Different diameters and materials require different spindle speeds. Consult your Machinist's Handbook, the internet, or the handy (but woefully incomplete) chart on the wall behind the lathe for appropriate spindle speeds. For example, brass and aluminum can be turned much faster than steel or cast iron.
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== Safety ==
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When cutting material in the saw, always present the smallest cross-section of stock to the blade, while ensuring that at least 3 blade teeth will always be in contact with the material when cutting. Fewer than 3 teeth contacting the material can result in tooth breakage. Too many teeth engaged in the workpiece will prevent satisafactory sawing rate and frequently produce dished cuts or cuts which are neither square nor parallel.<br>
1. NEVER leave the key in the chuck. Never. Not even for one second. Never never never. <br>
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2. Do not pick up chips unless you are absolutely 100% certain they have cooled. Once they have cooled, let them cool some more. Even then, it is better to simply push them off with a brush or pick up the long stringy ones with a pair of pliers. Further, this should never be done with the machine running; long chips could snag on the part or chuck and start whipping around. <br>
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3. Parts should never protrude from the chuck jaws more than 3 times the diameter of the part without being supported by a dead or live center in the tailstock, or a steady rest (that we do not have yet). Parts shorter than their diameter should ideally be at least halfway in the chuck. <br>
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4. Disengage the feedscrew transmission when not using it. <br>
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5. Long, thin parts that extend out the back of the headstock should be sheathed inside a very loose-fitting fixed tube to prevent them from whipping around and bending over, essentially becoming a weedwhacker on steroids. <br>
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6. Regularly check that the chuck is firmly affixed to the spindle nose. There is a short allen key in the lathe tool box that will fit between the spindle nose and gearbox. <br>
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7a. When polishing with abrasive paper/strips, never let it wrap more than halfway around the part. It can snag on itself and pull your fingers into the part. <br>
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7b. If polishing the inside diameter, never never never insert your finger in the hole. Wrap the abrasive around a small wood or plastic dowel that is significantly smaller than the ID of the hole. <br>
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8. Verify the chuck speed is appropriate for the diameter and material you are working on. <br>
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9. No long hair! NO LONG HAIR! Not even a ponytail is acceptable. If you have long hair, put it up under a hat or in a bun or something. Tying it back is NOT acceptable. We would rather see you looking silly than looking dead. If you don't believe me, do a google image search for "lathe accident" and you will see why. No loose long sleeve shirts, no dangling drawstrings on hooded sweaters, no loose jewelry, no headphones. If you are observed with any of these while operating this machinery, you will be asked to stop immediately. <br>
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10. Safety glasses are always a very good idea, however, if they fog up and obstruct your vision, stop what you are doing and get a different pair. It's still extremely dangerous not being able to see, even if your eyes are protected.
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== Known Problems ==
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Blade speed is selectable via the belt/pully arrangement between the motor and gearbox. Belt tension must be relaxed to change the belt on the pulleys. Proper belt tension is obtained when there is approximately 1/4" deflection of the belt using light finger pressure at the center span of the pulleys. When the belt is on the largest motor pulley and smallest gearbox pulley, the speed is 200 feet per minute. When the belt is in the middle of each pulley, the speed is 120 FPM, and when the belt is on the smallest motor pulley and largest gearbox pulley, the speed is 80 FPM. Slower speeds should be used for harder materials, i.e. 80 FPM should be used for tool steel, stainless steel, alloy steels, and hard bronze. 120 FPM should be used for mild steel, hard brass, and medium bronze, and 200 FPM should be used for soft brass, aluminum, and other similar materials.
The quill in the tailstock is not captive. If you crank the feed too much, it WILL disengage from the feedscrew, possibly screwing up your work. Be cautious of this. If you can see the keyway machined in the top of the quill, it's starting to extend too far. Stop your work, retract the quill, and reposition the tailstock closer to the work. This is a design flaw, not a failure of the equipment. We will (eventually) take steps to ensure the quill is captive, probably by machining a groove in the bottom of the quill and adding a set screw, as is standard on many lathes.
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== Future Ideas ==
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Add a chip pan below the lathe to catch aluminum (and only aluminum, do not cross-contaminate!) for recovery and recycling in the foundry.
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Latest revision as of 09:59, 11 February 2015

Back to list of Equipment

Horizontal bandsaw.jpg

Contents

[edit] Label

Horizontal Band Saw Allan M. http://ents.ca/index.php/Horizontal_Band_Saw

[edit] General

  • Owner/Loaner: Allan M.
  • Make/Model: Durex 71440
  • Usability: Working
  • Contact: Raphael B.
  • Where: Metalworking Bay
  • Certification Needed: Yes
  • Hackable: No
  • Estimated Value: $300
  • Quantity: {{{Quantity}}}

[edit] Instructions

{{{Instructions}}}

[edit] Specifications

  • Capacity: 4" x 6" rectangular or 4 1/2" round
  • Speed: 80, 120, 200 FPM via belt/pulley change
  • Motor: 1/3 HP, 120V, single-phase 1750 RPM
  • Blade size: 64 1/2" x 1/2" x .025" or .020"
  • Auto shut off

[edit] Usage

This is a metal-only bandsaw that will cut just about any non-hardened steel, brass, or aluminum. Although it does feature an automatic shutoff when the cut is complete, please do not leave the saw unattended during operation.

The saw can cut any angle between 0 and 45 degrees by adjusting the stationary jaw of the vise. Please return the vise jaw to the standard 0 degree position after use.

Use of cutting fluid is generally not required, but will certainly reduce heat buildup and wear on the blade, especially when cutting steel. If you decide to use cutting fluid, please clean up the mess afterwards, as it will surely puddle on the floor beneath the cut.

Proper tensioning of the blade is essential to prevent cracking and breakage of the blade. The tension knob is on the end of the swingarm, and should only be just tight enough to prevent slippage of the blade on the drive wheel. Making it tighter than this will not improve cutting performance and will in fact degrade blade life. Similarly, downfeed pressure must be carefully adjusted via the straight handle next to the vise wheel so that it's not heavy enough to bend/bow the blade, nor light enough that the teeth simply skim over the workpiece. Excessive feed pressure can break the blade, insufficient feed pressure dulls the blade quickly.

When cutting material in the saw, always present the smallest cross-section of stock to the blade, while ensuring that at least 3 blade teeth will always be in contact with the material when cutting. Fewer than 3 teeth contacting the material can result in tooth breakage. Too many teeth engaged in the workpiece will prevent satisafactory sawing rate and frequently produce dished cuts or cuts which are neither square nor parallel.

Blade speed is selectable via the belt/pully arrangement between the motor and gearbox. Belt tension must be relaxed to change the belt on the pulleys. Proper belt tension is obtained when there is approximately 1/4" deflection of the belt using light finger pressure at the center span of the pulleys. When the belt is on the largest motor pulley and smallest gearbox pulley, the speed is 200 feet per minute. When the belt is in the middle of each pulley, the speed is 120 FPM, and when the belt is on the smallest motor pulley and largest gearbox pulley, the speed is 80 FPM. Slower speeds should be used for harder materials, i.e. 80 FPM should be used for tool steel, stainless steel, alloy steels, and hard bronze. 120 FPM should be used for mild steel, hard brass, and medium bronze, and 200 FPM should be used for soft brass, aluminum, and other similar materials.

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