- Owner/Loaner: ENTS
- Make/Model: Craftex CX600
- Usability: Works
- Contact: Raphael B.
- Where: Metalworking Bay (Garage)
- Certification Needed: Yes
- Hackable: No
- Estimated Value: $1500
Motor: 3/4-HP, 110-V, Single Phase
Drilling Capacity: 1”
End Mill Capacity: 5/8”
Face Mill Capacity: 2-1/2”
Spindle Taper: R8
Spindle Stroke: 2”
Head Tilt:45° left or right)
Number of Spindle Speeds: Variable
Range of Spindle Speeds: 50 – 2250 RPM
Working Surface of Table: 20” x 7”
Table Longitudinal Travel: 11”
Table Cross Travel: 7”
Table Vertical Travel: 15”
Number of T-Slots: 3
T-Slot Size: 3/8”
Don't you dare change the angle of the tilt head. I will kill you, because tramming a milling machine is a very tedious process that can potentially take hours to accomplish. If you need to mill at an angle, clamp your part at an angle or buy the correct endmill. Do not change the tilt of the head!
1. Cutters and fingers do not like each other. Handle all cutters with respect. They are extremely sharp. Never let your fingers get close to a rotating cutter. Treat them like razor blades.
2. Verify the rotational direction of the spindle is correct before you start cutting. This will almost always be clockwise or "forward".
3. Verify the tool is securely fastened in the spindle before turning on the machine.
4. Climb milling is only recommended for experienced machinists. Use conventional milling instead wherever possible. Climb milling can suck a part into the cutter especially on machines with excessive backlash in the leadscrews. Media:Climb_vs_conventional.jpg
5. Ensure the part is securely affixed in the vise or to the table, and that the vise is also securely affixed to the table. CORRECT use of the clamping kit is critical for parts not held in a vise.
6. Start the cutter's rotation while it is well clear of the part, especially with a fly cutter or multi-insert facemill.
7. Ensure the spindle speed is appropriate for the tool type, diameter, and material to be cut.
8. Use medium-low speeds for the edgefinder. Do not raise an edgefinder off a part's edge while the spindle is turning. It may snag and destroy the edgefinder, part, or worse.
9. Never leave the drawbar wrench on the drawbar. Never never never. This is as critical and dangerous as leaving a key in a lathe chuck.
10. Never use the drill chuck for holding an endmill or other cutter that will experience a lateral load. Use a collet instead. The drill chuck is ONLY for drill bits, countersinks, reamers, counterbores, and other tools that only travel in the Z axis relative to the part.
11. Safety glasses are always a very good idea, however, if they fog up and obstruct your vision, stop what you are doing and get a different pair. It's still extremely dangerous not being able to see, even if your eyes are protected.
12. No long hair! NO LONG HAIR! Not even a ponytail is acceptable. If you have long hair, put it up under a hat or in a bun or something. Tying it back is NOT acceptable. We would rather see you looking silly than looking dead. No loose long sleeve shirts, no dangling drawstrings on hooded sweaters, no loose jewelry/rings, no headphones, no neckties. If you are observed with any of these while operating this machinery, you will be asked to stop immediately.
10 pc R8 collet set (1/4"-7/8" by 16ths)
1/2" drill chuck
10 pc 4-flute TiN-coated end mill set (3/16"-3/4" by 16ths)
Fractional drills 1/16"-1/2" by 64ths, Numbered drills #1-60, Letter drills A-Z
5 pc zero-flute 82 deg. countersinks
4" Kurt-type milling vise
Pair of 123 blocks
52 pc M10 clamping kit
2" boring head with boring bar set (under $100 all-in)
6" rotary table/index head with chuck (this won't be cheap)
29 pc fractional reamer set (1/16"-1/2" by 64ths)
14 pc over-under reamer set
25 pc metric reamer set (1.0mm-13.0mm by 0.5mm)
Silver & Demming drill set 9/16"-1"
Inexpensive capacitive DRO scales can easily be retrofitted onto the machine, and these are a GREAT addition to any mill, vastly increasing ease-of-use, reducing errors, and saving time.