Difference between pages "Milling Machine" and "Metal Lathe"

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{{Template:EquipmentPage |owner=ENTS |model=Craftex CX600 |serial=SERIAL NUMBER |arrived=Not Arrived Yet (paid, on back-order) |doesitwork=Works |contact=[[User:Orcinus|Raphael B.]] |where=Metalworking Bay (Garage) |certification= Yes |hackable= No |value=$1500 |itemphoto=[[File:CX600.jpg]] }}<br>  
+
{{Template:EquipmentPage |owner=ENTS |model=Craftex B2227L |serial=SERIAL NUMBER |arrived=June 2, 2014 |doesitwork=Works |contact=[[User:Orcinus|Raphael B.]] |where=Metalworking bay (Garage) |certification= Yes |hackable= No |value=$1300 |itemphoto=[[File:B2227L.jpg]]}}<br>
 
== Specifications ==
 
== Specifications ==
Motor: 3/4-HP, 110-V, Single Phase <br>
+
Motor: 3/4 HP, 110V, 8.8 Amps <br>
Drilling Capacity: 1” <br>
+
Reversing Switch <br>
End Mill Capacity: 5/8” <br>
+
Twin Belt Drives to 6 Speed (115 - 1626 RPM) Gearbox <br>
Face Mill Capacity: 2-1/2” <br>
+
18" Between Centers <br>
Spindle Taper: R8 <br>
+
Swing Over Bed: 10" <br>
Spindle Stroke: 2” <br>
+
Swing Over Cross Slide: 5" <br>
Head Tilt:45° left or right) <br>
+
1" Spindle Bore <br>
Number of Spindle Speeds: Variable <br>
+
MT4 Spindle Taper <br>
Range of Spindle Speeds: 50 – 2250 RPM <br>
+
Number of Inch Threads: 20 <br>
Working Surface of Table: 20” x 7” <br>
+
Inch Thread: 8 - 56 TPI <br>
Table Longitudinal Travel: 11” <br>
+
Number of Metric Threads: 9 <br>
Table Cross Travel: 7” <br>
+
Metric Thread: 0.5 - 3.0 mm <br>
Table Vertical Travel: 15” <br>
+
Lead Screw: 7 TPI <br>
Number of T-Slots: 3 <br>
+
Longitudinal Feed: 0.0025" - 0.005" per revolution <br>
T-Slot Size: 3/8” <br>
+
Tail Stock: MT2, 2" quill travel <br>
== Equipment Settings ==
+
Cross Slide: 4-1/2" Travel <br>
Don't you dare change the angle of the tilt head. I will kill you, because tramming a milling machine is a very tedious process that can potentially take hours to accomplish. If you need to mill at an angle, clamp your part at an angle or buy the correct endmill. Do not change the tilt of the head!
+
Maximum Tool Size: 9/16" <br>
 
+
Compound: 1" Travel <br>
== Safety ==
+
Max. Longitudinal Travel of Tool Slide: 2.75" <br>
1. Cutters and fingers do not like each other. Handle all cutters with respect. They are extremely sharp. Never let your fingers get close to a rotating cutter. Treat them like razor blades. <br>
+
2. Verify the rotational direction of the spindle is correct before you start cutting. This will almost always be clockwise or "forward". <br>
+
3. Verify the tool is securely fastened in the spindle before turning on the machine. <br>
+
4. Climb milling is only recommended for experienced machinists. Use conventional milling instead wherever possible. Climb milling can suck a part into the cutter especially on machines with excessive backlash in the leadscrews. [[Media:Climb_vs_conventional.jpg]]<br>
+
5. Ensure the part is securely affixed in the vise or to the table, and that the vise is also securely affixed to the table. CORRECT use of the clamping kit is critical for parts not held in a vise.<br>
+
6. Start the cutter's rotation while it is well clear of the part, especially with a fly cutter or multi-insert facemill. <br>
+
7. Ensure the spindle speed is appropriate for the tool type, diameter, and material to be cut. <br>
+
8. Use medium-low speeds for the edgefinder. Do not raise an edgefinder off a part's edge while the spindle is turning. It may snag and destroy the edgefinder, part, or worse. <br>
+
9. Never leave the drawbar wrench on the drawbar. Never never never. This is as critical and dangerous as leaving a key in a lathe chuck. <br>
+
10. Never use the drill chuck for holding an endmill or other cutter that will experience a lateral load. Use a collet instead. The drill chuck is ONLY for drill bits, countersinks, reamers, counterbores, and other tools that only travel in the Z axis relative to the part. <br>
+
11. Safety glasses are always a very good idea, however, if they fog up and obstruct your vision, stop what you are doing and get a different pair. It's still extremely dangerous not being able to see, even if your eyes are protected. <br>
+
12. No long hair! NO LONG HAIR! Not even a ponytail is acceptable. If you have long hair, put it up under a hat or in a bun or something. Tying it back is NOT acceptable. We would rather see you looking silly than looking dead. No loose long sleeve shirts, no dangling drawstrings on hooded sweaters, no loose jewelry/rings, no headphones, no neckties. If you are observed with any of these while operating this machinery, you will be asked to stop immediately.
+
  
 
== Accessories/Tooling ==
 
== Accessories/Tooling ==
10 pc R8 collet set (1/4"-7/8" by 16ths) <br>
+
3-jaw self-centering chuck <br>
1/2" drill chuck <br>
+
Right hand / Left hand / Center indexable carbide turning tools <br>
10 pc 4-flute TiN-coated end mill set (3/16"-3/4" by 16ths) <br>
+
Boring bar, indexable carbide<br>
 +
HSS turning/facing, threading, and 45 deg chamfering tools <br>
 +
Parting blade, 3/32" x 1/2" HSS<br>
 +
Tailstock drill chuck, 1/2" capacity <br>
 +
MT2 dead center for tailstock <br>
 +
MT4 dead center for spindle <br>
 +
Center drills #3, #4, #5 <br>
 
Fractional drills 1/16"-1/2" by 64ths, Numbered drills #1-60, Letter drills A-Z <br>
 
Fractional drills 1/16"-1/2" by 64ths, Numbered drills #1-60, Letter drills A-Z <br>
 
5 pc zero-flute 82 deg. countersinks <br>
 
5 pc zero-flute 82 deg. countersinks <br>
4" Kurt-type milling vise <br>
+
Assorted wrenches <br>
Pair of 123 blocks <br>
+
3" V-Block <br>
+
Fly cutter <br>
+
Slitting saw <br>
+
52 pc M10 clamping kit <br>
+
  
 
== Accessories/Tooling Wishlist ==
 
== Accessories/Tooling Wishlist ==
2" boring head with boring bar set (under $100 all-in) <br>
+
4-jaw independent chuck with adapter <br>
6" rotary table/index head with chuck (this won't be cheap) <br>
+
 
29 pc fractional reamer set (1/16"-1/2" by 64ths) <br>
 
29 pc fractional reamer set (1/16"-1/2" by 64ths) <br>
 
14 pc over-under reamer set <br>
 
14 pc over-under reamer set <br>
25 pc metric reamer set (1.0mm-13.0mm by 0.5mm) <br>
+
25 pc metric reamer set <br>
 
Silver & Demming drill set 9/16"-1" <br>
 
Silver & Demming drill set 9/16"-1" <br>
  
== Modifications ==
+
== Equipment Settings ==
Inexpensive capacitive DRO scales can easily be retrofitted onto the machine, and these are a GREAT addition to any mill, vastly increasing ease-of-use, reducing errors, and saving time.
+
Spindle speed: Be mindful of what spindle speed the gearbox is set to. Different diameters and materials require different spindle speeds. Consult your Machinist's Handbook, the internet, or the handy (but woefully incomplete) chart on the wall behind the lathe for appropriate spindle speeds. For example, brass and aluminum can be turned much faster than steel or cast iron.
 +
 
 +
== Safety ==
 +
1. NEVER leave the key in the chuck. Never. Not even for one second. Never never never. <br>
 +
2. Do not pick up chips unless you are absolutely 100% certain they have cooled. Once they have cooled, let them cool some more. Even then, it is better to simply push them off with a brush or pick up the long stringy ones with a pair of pliers. Further, this should never be done with the machine running; long chips could snag on the part or chuck and start whipping around. <br>
 +
3. Parts should never protrude from the chuck jaws more than 3 times the diameter of the part without being supported by a dead or live center in the tailstock, or a steady rest (that we do not have yet). Parts shorter than their diameter should ideally be at least halfway in the chuck. <br>
 +
4. Disengage the feedscrew transmission when not using it, and of course the halfnut on the carriage. <br>
 +
5. Long, thin parts that extend out the back of the headstock should be sheathed inside a very loose-fitting fixed tube to prevent them from whipping around and bending over, essentially becoming a weedwhacker on steroids. <br>
 +
6. Regularly check that the chuck is firmly affixed to the spindle nose. There is a short allen key in the lathe tool box that will fit between the spindle nose and gearbox. <br>
 +
7a. When polishing with abrasive paper/strips, never let it wrap more than halfway around the part. It can snag on itself and pull your fingers into the part. <br>
 +
7b. If polishing the inside diameter, never never never insert your finger in the hole. Wrap the abrasive around a small wood or plastic dowel that is significantly smaller than the ID of the hole. <br>
 +
8. Verify the chuck speed is appropriate for the diameter and material you are working on. <br>
 +
9. No long hair! NO LONG HAIR! Not even a ponytail is acceptable. If you have long hair, put it up under a hat or in a bun or something. Tying it back is NOT acceptable. We would rather see you looking silly than looking dead. If you don't believe me, do a google image search for "lathe accident" and you will see why. No loose long sleeve shirts, no dangling drawstrings on hooded sweaters, no loose jewelry/rings, no headphones, no neckties. If you are observed with any of these while operating this machinery, you will be asked to stop immediately. <br>
 +
10. Safety glasses are always a very good idea, however, if they fog up and obstruct your vision, stop what you are doing and get a different pair. It's still extremely dangerous not being able to see, even if your eyes are protected. <br>
 +
11. Do not wear gloves while working on the lathe. They can snag and pull you in.
  
 
== Known Problems ==
 
== Known Problems ==
 +
The quill in the tailstock is not captive. If you crank the feed too much, it WILL disengage from the feedscrew, possibly screwing up your work. Be cautious of this. If you can see the keyway machined in the top of the quill, it's starting to extend too far. Stop your work, retract the quill, and reposition the tailstock closer to the work. This is a design flaw, not a failure of the equipment. We will (eventually) take steps to ensure the quill is captive, probably by machining a groove in the bottom of the quill and adding a set screw, as is standard on many lathes.
 +
 +
== Future Ideas ==
 +
Add a chip pan below the lathe to catch aluminum (and only aluminum, do not cross-contaminate!) for recovery and recycling in the foundry.

Latest revision as of 21:09, 25 November 2014

Back to list of Equipment

B2227L.jpg

Contents

[edit] Label

Metal Lathe http://ents.ca/index.php/Metal_Lathe

[edit] General

  • Owner/Loaner: ENTS
  • Make/Model: Craftex B2227L
  • Usability: Works
  • Contact: Raphael B.
  • Where: Metalworking bay (Garage)
  • Certification Needed: Yes
  • Hackable: No
  • Estimated Value: $1300

[edit] Instructions

{{{Instructions}}}

[edit] Specifications

Motor: 3/4 HP, 110V, 8.8 Amps
Reversing Switch
Twin Belt Drives to 6 Speed (115 - 1626 RPM) Gearbox
18" Between Centers
Swing Over Bed: 10"
Swing Over Cross Slide: 5"
1" Spindle Bore
MT4 Spindle Taper
Number of Inch Threads: 20
Inch Thread: 8 - 56 TPI
Number of Metric Threads: 9
Metric Thread: 0.5 - 3.0 mm
Lead Screw: 7 TPI
Longitudinal Feed: 0.0025" - 0.005" per revolution
Tail Stock: MT2, 2" quill travel
Cross Slide: 4-1/2" Travel
Maximum Tool Size: 9/16"
Compound: 1" Travel
Max. Longitudinal Travel of Tool Slide: 2.75"

[edit] Accessories/Tooling

3-jaw self-centering chuck
Right hand / Left hand / Center indexable carbide turning tools
Boring bar, indexable carbide
HSS turning/facing, threading, and 45 deg chamfering tools
Parting blade, 3/32" x 1/2" HSS
Tailstock drill chuck, 1/2" capacity
MT2 dead center for tailstock
MT4 dead center for spindle
Center drills #3, #4, #5
Fractional drills 1/16"-1/2" by 64ths, Numbered drills #1-60, Letter drills A-Z
5 pc zero-flute 82 deg. countersinks
Assorted wrenches

[edit] Accessories/Tooling Wishlist

4-jaw independent chuck with adapter
29 pc fractional reamer set (1/16"-1/2" by 64ths)
14 pc over-under reamer set
25 pc metric reamer set
Silver & Demming drill set 9/16"-1"

[edit] Equipment Settings

Spindle speed: Be mindful of what spindle speed the gearbox is set to. Different diameters and materials require different spindle speeds. Consult your Machinist's Handbook, the internet, or the handy (but woefully incomplete) chart on the wall behind the lathe for appropriate spindle speeds. For example, brass and aluminum can be turned much faster than steel or cast iron.

[edit] Safety

1. NEVER leave the key in the chuck. Never. Not even for one second. Never never never.
2. Do not pick up chips unless you are absolutely 100% certain they have cooled. Once they have cooled, let them cool some more. Even then, it is better to simply push them off with a brush or pick up the long stringy ones with a pair of pliers. Further, this should never be done with the machine running; long chips could snag on the part or chuck and start whipping around.
3. Parts should never protrude from the chuck jaws more than 3 times the diameter of the part without being supported by a dead or live center in the tailstock, or a steady rest (that we do not have yet). Parts shorter than their diameter should ideally be at least halfway in the chuck.
4. Disengage the feedscrew transmission when not using it, and of course the halfnut on the carriage.
5. Long, thin parts that extend out the back of the headstock should be sheathed inside a very loose-fitting fixed tube to prevent them from whipping around and bending over, essentially becoming a weedwhacker on steroids.
6. Regularly check that the chuck is firmly affixed to the spindle nose. There is a short allen key in the lathe tool box that will fit between the spindle nose and gearbox.
7a. When polishing with abrasive paper/strips, never let it wrap more than halfway around the part. It can snag on itself and pull your fingers into the part.
7b. If polishing the inside diameter, never never never insert your finger in the hole. Wrap the abrasive around a small wood or plastic dowel that is significantly smaller than the ID of the hole.
8. Verify the chuck speed is appropriate for the diameter and material you are working on.
9. No long hair! NO LONG HAIR! Not even a ponytail is acceptable. If you have long hair, put it up under a hat or in a bun or something. Tying it back is NOT acceptable. We would rather see you looking silly than looking dead. If you don't believe me, do a google image search for "lathe accident" and you will see why. No loose long sleeve shirts, no dangling drawstrings on hooded sweaters, no loose jewelry/rings, no headphones, no neckties. If you are observed with any of these while operating this machinery, you will be asked to stop immediately.
10. Safety glasses are always a very good idea, however, if they fog up and obstruct your vision, stop what you are doing and get a different pair. It's still extremely dangerous not being able to see, even if your eyes are protected.
11. Do not wear gloves while working on the lathe. They can snag and pull you in.

[edit] Known Problems

The quill in the tailstock is not captive. If you crank the feed too much, it WILL disengage from the feedscrew, possibly screwing up your work. Be cautious of this. If you can see the keyway machined in the top of the quill, it's starting to extend too far. Stop your work, retract the quill, and reposition the tailstock closer to the work. This is a design flaw, not a failure of the equipment. We will (eventually) take steps to ensure the quill is captive, probably by machining a groove in the bottom of the quill and adding a set screw, as is standard on many lathes.

[edit] Future Ideas

Add a chip pan below the lathe to catch aluminum (and only aluminum, do not cross-contaminate!) for recovery and recycling in the foundry.

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